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2015-Jul-1 - rdinals in their game against the

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2015-Jul-1 - Amazon Payments button into

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2015-Jul-1 - here he studied fisheri

Congo from the Cockpit

When a country the size of Western Europe has only 300 miles of paved roads, almost anything with two wings, a tail, and an engine will do aviation codes be damned. In the Democratic Republic of the Congo, where old airplanes go to die, a family of Indian immigrants has survived 50 years of dictatorship, war, and plunder, and founded a linchpin of the precarious economy: a charter outfit called Business Aviation. On the fish for diamonds flight, among other feats of turboprop ingenuity, William Langewiesche meets some of the continent most unflappable pilots. It Larry Csonka Jersey offers benefits to the pilots and mechanics, too, allowing them to work creatively with airplanes in their organic state two wings, a tail, and engines of various kinds. That freedom compensates for the low pay. Even the drive to the airport offers challenges, around potholes that can swallow a Jeep, Dan Marino Dolphins Jersey through markets teeming with the ultra poor, along walls pockmarked by rifle rounds from the latest political exercise, past the checkpoints where renegade soldiers and policemen extort bribes. In the capital, Kinshasa, the president is holed up behind a few thousand guards. He comes from the embattled East and barely speaks the local language, Lingala. He controls the forces of order only to the extent that he does not interfere with their rackets. It is a country the size of Western Europe, with 300 miles of paved roads. It has plenty of dirt landing strips, but only a handful of tarmac runways, most of them rough. The airplanes arrive from the graveyards of America, Europe, and the former Soviet Union. Once they are branded with the Congolese registration, an unmistakable "9Q" followed by other markings on the fuselage, they join the ranks of a fleet that has been outlawed by developed nations and is shunned even by the neighboring African states. Congolese airplanes do seem to crash on a regular basis, sagging overloaded into the ground after unsuccessful liftoffs, descending with failing engines into forest clearings, or hitting holes after touchdown, shearing off landing gear, and swerving into the rough. But so what look at how they are being used, transporting all manner of people and goods into all manner of places. Local pilots resent the blacklisting, given the skill with which they fly. They insist that God smiles on aviation in the Congo, because so many of them have crashed and survived. The exception, they say, are the Russian pilots, who when they crash usually lose their lives. Recently in the Congo I asked a lot about this, but no one could explain why.I stayed in Kinshasa with a charter airline called Business Aviation, which serves the Congo with three high wing turboprops tough old airplanes that can handle the dirt strips and broken runways. One of the senior pilots was a dignified Senegalese named Diarra Fousseyni, who captained the largest airplane, a 30 passenger Nord 262 built in France in 1968. Fousseyni had been the chief pilot of Air Sngal until he quit to fly in Gambia and then Sudan. In 2005 he crashed an old British Andover there while delivering Norwegian relief supplies. No matter: God smiled and everyone survived. Fousseyni moved on to the Congo. He had started flying at the age of 21, in 1969. By the time I met him he had logged 19,800 but who cockpit hours. He was 59 and had less than a year to go until the mandatory retirement age for pilots back home in Senegal. The cutoff in the Congo was less clear. This was not a subject he spoke of easily. When I broached it he said, "I tried to retire once before, but whenever an airplane passed overhead I wished I was inside. Piloting is all I know, my friend. But I am tired now. I think the time has come for me to write."Pilots in Africa are held very high. We were standing by the Nord under a sweltering sun in a city named Kikwit, 350 miles east of Kinshasa. Kikwit is famous for an Ebola outbreak which killed 245 people in 1995. It has a population of about 300,000 and a modern cell phone network, but except for the output from a few privately held generators, it has no electric power. This should not be so, given the region hydroelectric potential, but the Congo is like an airplane poorly flown no matter how good its original design. Kikwit had power before, but at night now it is lit only by little pools of candlelight. It used to be accessible by the Congo main road, but the road has eroded away, transforming the overland trip from Kinshasa into a one week ordeal with days spent waiting behind mired trucks or digging ramps through the vertical cuts. The trip by riverboat is even longer, but the riverboats run only rarely these days. Kikwit, however, has an asphalt runway, and though it is jarring, it is good enough to allow old airplanes to serve it at very low cost. That morning we had flown in 14 adult passengers, one baby boy, one flight attendant (female, beautiful, neatly uniformed), one diesel generator, a personal computer, 10 boxes of disposable syringes, a carton of notepads, a carton of nested ice cream cones, a stack of plastic basins, and perhaps a thousand pounds of compactly taped mystery bundles containing manufactured goods for the street markets there. The Nord main cargo hold is a void containing radio racks between the cockpit and the passenger cabin. For the return flight, it was being loaded, floor to ceiling, with one of Kikwit main food crops, cassava leaves, known as pondu, which are consumed as a vegetable mash. A pickup truck arrived with about 10 passengers, who climbed early into the airplane through an aft door, and sat inside sweating patiently and mopping their brows.Fousseyni walked me out to survey the runway, which had buckled in the heat. He eyed the surface glumly and said, "On the departure roll we start on the left and pick our holes." A C 130 Hercules hauling United Nations supplies had landed hard several days before and was resting wounded beside the runway. Farther along lay the wreck of another Nord, now partially stripped, also belonging to Business Aviation. It had crashed several months previously with Fousseyni at the controls after an internal support structure for the landing gear failed in flight, leaving one wheel dangling but registering "green" for down and locked on the cockpit display; upon touchdown the airplane had gone crooked and careened off the runway. This is nothing against the design of the airplane or the maintenance that had been done: Fousseyni believed that the old machine had finally just decided to give up.He led me back to the latest willing beast, past the cassava leaves in the cargo hold, and into the cockpit for the engine start delayed for a moment by a door ajar light. His co pilot was an affable middle aged Congolese named Albert Ependa, the son of an ambassador to Spain, Great Britain, and Morocco, whose early enthusiasm for this career had been dampened by three serious accidents. He told me he earns $2,000 a month, three fourths of which he sends to his wife and three children, who live in Montreal; the company pays the fare to Canada when he goes to see them. He was competent in the cockpit, though placid, as co pilots learn to be; he read a checklist to Fousseyni as we back taxied on the runway, wallowing through the holes. I sat in a jump seat behind the two men, as I had flying in. Fousseyni pivoted the airplane tightly, lined it up, and immediately brought the engines to full takeoff power. The airplane shook and trembled as he held it there, checking for signs of trouble. He released the brakes, and we rolled, wallowing again, then slamming down the left side of the runway, picking our holes. With urgency in his voice, as if he considered every takeoff to be an open question, Ependa called the decision speeds as we accelerated through them. Fousseyni was more relaxed. He raised the nose, and after a period rolling on the main wheels alone the Nord lumbered into the sky.Fousseyni banked left and headed for Kinshasa. The Nord is an underpowered airplane, and therefore relatively efficient. It climbed at merely 700 feet per minute, indicating 150 miles an hour, until leveling at 10,000 feet, where it settled into a sedate cruise. Though the day was cloudless and offered unlimited views of the horizon, Fousseyni flew with hardly a glance outside, hunkered down in his seat, and staring gloomily at the instrument panel in the sort of timeless trance that characterizes professional flying. The sky was smooth. The Congo slid by below, its forests giving way to an undulating savanna crossed by serpentine rivers and marked by isolated villages casting out footpaths in crooked lines. For miles the main road from Kinshasa lay in sight, unusable and abandoned, with not a single vehicle upon it. Here and there the savanna burned, raising columns of smoke, where villagers were clearing fields or hunting wild game. Fousseyni handed control to Ependa and turned in his seat to talk to me. He was still fretting over the roughness of Kikwit runway, which he seemed to take as a personal affront. He said, "Either we accept to fly in these conditions or we do not work." He reached into a briefcase beside the seat and extracted a tattered folder in which he kept photographs of his life. One by one he contemplated them, and passed them to me. They were brittle, and had colors that had turned and faded. There was the DC 3 in which he had first made captain, and its replacement, a Fokker 27 turboprop; there was the restaurant dinner in Manchester, England, where he had just picked up a still larger airplane, a new Andover, in 1979 ah, those were the golden times. reconfiguration, naturally) as the presidential aircraft. Fousseyni flew as the presidential pilot. His relationship with the president went back to an incident in the DC 3 at the start of the decade. Fousseyni was flying as captain on a run from the Cape Verde Islands to Dakar, and was an hour off the coast when the right engine caught fire. He shut off the fuel, pulled a lever that extinguished the flames, and continued for Dakar on the left engine alone. Why this was dramatic, I do not know, since the DC 3 at low altitude can cruise on a single engine, but maybe the airplane was overloaded I was embarrassed to ask. Fousseyni implied that it was only through his skill that the DC 3 did not crash into the sea. When the airplane landed in Dakar, the press was waiting, and television cameras captured the heroic arrival. Fousseyni co pilot was a Frenchman who now sends Fousseyni a necktie every year. After the passengers disembarked, the co pilot emerged from the airplane and in full view of the press embraced and kissed the propeller of the good engine, weeping in gratitude. I figure this was a genetic thing: French pilots can be so emotional. To my regret Fousseyni did not have a picture of the scene. Instead he showed me a photo of a ceremony in which the president awarded him Senegal Ordre du Mrite.Fousseyni put away the pictures carefully and took over the controls for the descent into Kinshasa. Ahead and to the right, the Congo River curved through green hills, and widened into the Stanley Pool. We had checked in by then with Kinshasa Control, a radarless facility that relies on a set of aerial gateways, or waypoints, through which all flights must pass when entering or exiting the airspace around the capital. Descending through 4,000 feet, we overflew the main airport, N whose single, 15,420 foot runway is so long that it has been designated by the United States as an emergency landing strip for the space shuttle. N is where the occasional international flights arrive gleaming airliners from Europe and South Africa that seem to have arrived from another planet, and do not linger long before rushing away. The ramp there is a plane spotter delight, crowded with the decrepit jets that are too fast and fragile to handle the local dirt strips, but that manage (usually) to stagger through long distance runs to the main paved runways of eastern and southern Congo.Our destination was Kinshasa other airport, a broken 4,429 foot runway called N that lies by the center of town and is home to propeller driven airplanes serving the backcountry of the West. N was the scene of one of aviation most lethal crashes, when in 1996 a Russian crew ran an overloaded Antonov 32 off the far end of the runway during an attempted takeoff. The airplane slid into a crowded street market, slicing and burning perhaps 300 people to death; an exact count was never taken.Seen from the air the city lies like a carpet of walled yards and two story cheap brick constructions, cut through by street channels dense in places with market crowds and hand pushed carts. More than 10 million people live there. By urban standards there are relatively few cars, but they jam up behind the potholes and checkpoints, and give the impression of being too many. Fousseyni was cleared to land by the N tower. He swept the airplane through a wide turn out over the Congo River, and approached the runway with the flaps and the landing gear extended, roaring low over the pirogue clogged riverfront, a fish market, muddy streets, and another market selling sundries. The view ahead was disconcerting: people were trudging across the runway, many balancing loads on their heads, with no apparent concern for the airplane bearing down on them from above. Fousseyni did not flinch. He landed smoothly and slowed the airplane with only light application of the brakes, counting on the pedestrians at the last moment to scurry out of the way exactly as they did, and without scattering their loads. The Congo makes its own accommodations, many of which work reasonably well. I mentioned to Fousseyni an episode from my years as a pilot, when, after landing a fast airplane at night in California, I flashed by a woman walking her dog down the runway not far off the centerline. In the Congo at least, a pilot would not have been surprised.We taxied off the runway, past men hoeing vegetable plots in the airport tall grass, and toward the airport flight line a group of leaky old hangars, built long ago by the Belgians and now in severe disrepair. Some of those hangars have been expropriated by impoverished Congolese soldiers and their families, who have partitioned the spaces with scraps of plywood and tin, and live there now in complete squalor, defecating beside the taxiways, collecting wash water from stagnant puddles, and wandering about in disregard of spinning propellers. The children in particular pose a challenge to ground navigation, as they chase one another among the moving airplanes, and dash after soccerballs that have gone astray. Fousseyni eyed them warily. He maneuvered us to the Business Aviation base, a concrete apron and a single maintenance hangar just large enough to accommodate a dusty old helicopter, a British sports car project, and a single Nord. After the propellers stopped turning, the passengers disembarked and workers began unloading the cargo, throwing the bundled cassava leaves onto the ground. A couple of bedraggled soldiers stood nearby, dully cradling their Kalashnikovs.Fousseyni went inside the hangar office to fill out post flight forms. I left him to the pleasure. Across the apron, a company ground crew clustered in the shade of another high wing airplane, a Czech built 17 passenger turboprop called the Let 410 UVP E, one of two Lets that Business Aviation owns. The Let is a slow, big boned airplane, tough enough to handle the daily abuse from the Congo runways, and known for its willingness to keep flying no matter what its aches and pains. Something seemed seriously wrong with this one, however. The crew had positioned a stepladder under the left wing and was peering up as a mechanic shook and wiggled an aileron. I walked over to listen in. Someone said that the pilot of the previous flight had complained of heavy control forces and sloppy rolls a significant departure from the norm in an airplane that is remarkable for precisely the opposite characteristics. Sure enough, it turned out now that the left aileron had come partially loose, and not, as one might expect, because its bearings were worn, but because at some point they had entirely disappeared presumably falling off in flight, and landing in the forest somewhere to rust into the earth. The good old Let. It had probably flown for a while like that, with an ailment that might have caused Mike Pouncey Dolphins Jersey a higher strung airplane to flutter apart.The company chief mechanic walked up to assess the situation. He was a grizzled Welshman named Ken Roberts, aged 56, who had been in Africa for 25 years, making good money in times of war, and just enough to get by in between. He had not come to the continent so much as washed up on its shores. Now he swore he would never leave, because his blood had grown so thin that he could no longer endure the cold. Long ago he had been married to a woman in Wales, and she had borne two children with him, but he had never been much of a family man. All he could say about Christmas anymore was that it falls in the summer if you go far enough south. But nothing compared to his life on the equator, where all seasons are hot, and the nights are reliably balmy. He was a drinker, but not on the job. At home he had a beautiful Congolese girlfriend on whom he was sometimes tough. At the airport he had a Congolese crew of self taught NFL Jerseys Cheap mechanics, in whom he invested great trust. When he greeted them in the morning, he said, "Bon fucking jour," and they bon fucking jour him back. Roberts French was poor, but good enough. Their French was African and fluent. They took to bon fucking jouring one another even when he was not around. That was the style for a while in the hangar. Now under the wing of the Let he said, "New day, same shit," but didn mean it. He once told me that the beauty of working in Africa is that every day is different, and that improvisation is required. Never before had he seen an aileron completely shed its bearings. He did not have replacements in stock, and could not just go to a dealer and buy the approved parts. With the airplane loaded and already behind schedule, he was temporarily flummoxed.But standing in the group was a lively young man named Asil Munshi, an Indian with a Canadian passport, three generations into life in Africa, who by breeding and experience was not about to let such a small matter get in the way of trade. Nominally, Munshi is the flight line manager, in charge of loading and unloading the airplanes, and of such low level chores as overseeing the maintenance of the company cars. In practice he is the scion of Business Aviation owners a family of Indian Muslims who came from a village in the state of Gujarat, established themselves as shopkeepers in the Congo, and tenaciously hung on through all the disastrous history of the past 50 years. In a small way Munshi reactions now fit perfectly into the larger family tradition. "Bearings?" he said to Roberts. "Show me the size, and give me an hour." Munshi is 30 years old. He has an Indian wife, Shafika, born in Lubumbashi, and a two year old son. He went to college in Colorado, where he studied fisheries management. He speaks flawless American English, Indian English, African French, French French, Spanish, Gujarati, Lingala, and Swahili. He is a natural mimic with a tendency to tell stories by playing all sides in character and voice. Some in the family worry that he clowns around too much, and that he has never applied himself to the business. But he is determined in his own way, and knows all the backstreets of Kinshasa. To me he said, "There a market down the road where you can find anything you want. And I mean anything. What do you want?"I said, "A Russian battle tank."Roberts said, "Right now I take the aileron bearings for a Let 410."Munshi jumped behind the wheel of an old white station wagon, and with a wave to the soldiers he rattled away.

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2015-Jul-1 - he talks are at such a delic

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2015-Jul-1 - Which kind of dad it'

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